Tokyo
Japan's hyperactive capital is fun and dynamic, but it can also be overwhelming and confusing. I've explored its back alleys, cycled its streets and rode its spider's web of subways and trains to discover some amazing places. Here are my top Tokyo picks.
Top Sights
Asakusa
Home to Sensō-ji, Tokyo's most venerable Buddhist temple, this bustling district beside the Sumida River packs in craft shops, markets, traditional lodgings and an retro atmosphere. Visit at night to see the temple precincts illuminated and to seek out intimate places to eat and drink.
Shibuya
Famous for having possibly the busiest pedestrian intersection in the world, this trend-setting district has been undergoing massive redevelopment. A long buried waterway has been uncovered and new retail and entertainment complexes promise to dazzle.
Tokyo National Museum
If you only have time to visit one museum, make it this one. Anchoring the northern end of Ueno Park, this august institution contains the world's largest collection of Japanese art. From ancient pottery to exquisite kimonos there's bound to be something to excite your imagination.
Imperial Palace
Tokyo's geographical and historical heart, the emperor's secluded 1960s residence is surrounded by a moat and lush gardens. Marvel at the massive stone walls, the remains of Edo Castle which once stood here. For a peek beyond the public areas, sign up for an official tour.
Tsukiji Market
Tokyo's main fish and produce market relocated to new premises at Toyosu in 2018, but its former central city neighbourhood remains a fascinating one to explore. Shop for all things culinary from fresh wasabi to kitchen knives and onigiri (rice triangles wrapped in seaweed).
teamlab Borderless
Tokyo's contemporary art scene will blow your mind. Prime eye-candy is this 'museum' of 60 light and animation installations by the digital art collective teamLab. It's located in the futuristic surrounds of Odaiba, a manmade island in Tokyo Bay, and booking ahead is essential.
Yanasen
Slip back in time by spending a day exploring this quaint neighbourhood of wooden houses, temples, shrines and shops. Yanasen is the collective name for the areas of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi. Don't miss the tranquil shrine Nezu-jinja and the traditional shopping street Yanaka Ginza.
Ghibli Museum
Reserve well ahead to visit this delightful museum celebrating the work of the Ghibli animation studio, makers of enchanting movies including My Neighbour Totoro and Spirited Away. It's a short train ride west of Shinjuku in Mitaka, near pretty Inokashira Park.
Meiji-jingū
Giant sake barrels, gifts to the nature gods, line the approach to Tokyo's pre-eminent Shinto shrine. Built as a memorial to the Emperor Meiji the shrine is enveloped in wooded grounds and gardens - don't miss the Jingū Naien which blooms with over 100 varieties of irises every June.
Rikugi-en
It's a tough call on Tokyo's most elegant formal garden, but Rikugi-en, completed in 1702, is a prime candidate. Designed around a central pond, with trickling streams and wooden teahouses, its famous for its display of maple trees in late November which blaze in the colours of autumn.
Top Experiences
Attend a Sumo Tournament
The National Sumo Stadium in Ryōgoku is the venue for the sumo tournaments held in January, May and September. Line up before 6am at the stadium box office to snag unreserved day seat tickets.
Join a Festival
No matter when you visit, there's sure to be a matsuri (a religious festival) happening somewhere in Tokyo. And everyone gets out into parks and gardens in late march or early April for hanami (cherry blossom) parties.
Learn to Cook Japanese Food
Japanese food (washoku) is so unique and delicious that it has been Unesco World Heritage listed. Join classes to learn how to make everything from curry rice and soba noodles to sushi and tofu.
Paddle the Rivers & Canals
For an aquatic perspective on the city join Tokyo Great Cycling Tour on their guided kayaking tours of Tokyo's waterways. Too energetic? Then relax aboard a Nihombashi Cruise or hop on a water bus at Asakusa.
Practice a Traditional Craft
Tokyo is a city that treasures traditional artisans. Among the crafts you can learn are woodblock printing at Mokuhankan in Asakusa and sumie (ink brush paining at Toyokuni Atelier Gallery in Jimbōchō.
Take a Bath
Soaking in an onsen (a natural hot spring bath) is blissfully relaxing. City bathouses include the colouful Ōedo Onsen Monogatari in Odaiba, but for the best onsen in natural surroundings make a day trip to Hakone.
Cycle the City
There are many ways to get around Tokyo but one of the most enjoyable is on a bike. You could join a tour or rent a bike at operations such as the hipster hangout Tokyobike Rentals Yanaka.
See Traditional Performing Arts
Dip into the capital's superlative traditional performing arts scene. Line up for day tickets for colourful kabuki performances at Kabuki-za or check out what's on at the National Theatre.
Go-kart in a Costume
It's a hoot to get behind the low-slung wheel of a motorised go-kart and drive around Tokyo dressed in a character onesie. Book in advance with MariCAR and make sure you have a valid International Driving Permit.
Meet a Geisha
The Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre occasionally holds free geisha dance demonstrations. Alternatively, spend an hour in the company of one of these traditional entertainers at Time To Geisha in Nihonbashi.